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1905-1906 Underground Printing-Нouse
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Creativity and courage are two of the main attributes of revolutionaries and underground activists.
In the beginning of the 20th century, the Social Democratic Party succeeded in accomplishing what is arguably the most audacious enterprise in the whole history of revolution in Russia. Not only did they legally settle right under the nose of the police department, but also arranged for the periodic publishing of “disruptive literature,” that is illegal newspapers and leaflets.
Today, the “1905-1906 Underground Printing Office” museum reproduces the atmosphere surrounding these extraordinary events with astonishing accuracy.
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Moscow Armed Escort Battalion
Precinct
Government Wine Warehouse
Butyrskaya Prison Fortress
Miussky Tram Depot
Georgian Settlement / Tishinsky Market
Caucasian shop covert printing office
Moscow Armed Escort Battalion
The Butyrskaya Prison Fortress was run by the Moscow Armed Escort Battalion. This battalion was stationed at #61 on Lesnaya Street, practically adjacent to the “Caucasian Shop” (this was the codename of the underground printing office used by the revolutionaries). Either officers of the Armed Escort or privates would often call in the exotic neighbourhood shop.
In modern times this building is just an ordinary residential building.
Precinct
The 2nd precinct of the Sushchevsky police unit, surveying the district where the underground printing office was situated, was a genuine nest of foes to the group of undergrounders. It was the detectives of this infamous 2nd precinct who took great efforts in search for the covert printing office on the territory under their jurisdiction.
In 1903, the staff of the Sushchevsky unit was burdened with another big headache: a new district became part of Moscow city. A part of this district fell under their jurisdiction. We can assume that because of this change, the police loosened its grip over the “trouble-free” district which housed the underground printing office.
Today, the Central Ministry of Internal Affairs Museum occupies the building of the former imperial police station.
Government Wine Warehouse
This was the closest of the dangerous neighbours to the printing office. Since a large store of alcohol in one place could cause sudden public unrest, the government wine warehouse was very well guarded. Out in the street, the policeman kept a watch on the affairs from his post which was located practically opposite the underground enterprise: not the best of the company for professional revolutionaries.
Nowadays the building has been fully reconstructed, with spacious industrial premises turned into offices.
Butyrskaya Prison Fortress
The Butyrskaya Prison, or the infamous “Butyrka” as it was called for short, was the central transit prison in Tsarist Russia, one of the oldest in the country. It seems that it would be hard to find a worse location for underground activities than this one. The “Russian Bastille” inculcated holy terror in the hot minds of all anti-state activists. It seemed like a disastrous decision to organize covert operations in such a close vicinity to it. But our underground activists relied on the idea that the police would not expect them to be so daring.
Luckily, the founders and operators of the underground printing office on Lesnaya Street did not have to experience the jailhouse life, in spite of being located closely to it.
The Butyrskaya Prison is still functional. The former “Butyrskaya Prison Fortress” has not changed at all, from the architectural point of view, over the past 100 years.
Miussky Tram Depot
The presence of this monumental facility in close vicinity posed significant risks for covert activities. Just like any other state-owned enterprise of technical and infrastructural importance the tram depot was heavily guarded both from inside and outside. And there were reasons for that: the Bolshevik movement was very strong among the staff of the tram depot, one of whose workers, Peter Shepetilnikov, was elected as a member of the Moscow Soviet (Council) of Workers' Deputies. (Soviets emerged across the country in the course of the first Russian revolution of 1905-1907 as political bodies fighting for the workers’ rights.)
“Shepetilnikov Trolley Depot” (yes, named after that very Shepetilnikov) is currently located at this site. This depot is not used for public transport service and only serves as a repair workshop.
The tram line across Lesnaya Street is still functional, just as it was 100 years ago, but nowadays it offers more of a scenic or tourist ride.
Georgian Settlement / Tishinsky Market
This was the only place in the vicinity which did not emanate danger, but on the contrary, was supportive of the underground activities. The location of the Georgian fruit shop (which gave a cover to the underground printing office) could not have been better: just four blocks away from the “native” Georgian settlement.
The Georgian settlement is an old Moscow district, which had been populated by Georgians coming to Moscow since the beginning of the 12th century.
The establishment of yet another Georgian company, close to the Georgian settlement, planning to do good business, did not arouse any suspicion among the authorities.
The close proximity to the Tishinsky Market situated in the Georgian settlement, was also a plus, because one could always buy fresh Georgian fruits there. These fruits were a must to imitate the functioning of the “Caucasian shop” which housed the covert printing office.
Nowadays you can see the monument to the friendship between the Russian and Georgian people, standing in the middle of Tishinsky Square.
The risky idea of locating such an enterprise in one of the most guarded city districts, which was nearly flooded with police and soldiers, belonged to already well-known professional revolutionaries like Leonid Krasin, Trifon Enukidze and Vasily Sokolov.
For the most part, it was a detailed, well thought operation, which was finely carried-out by the masters of covert activity, who were specifically called in by the party leadership from Georgia.
The choice for the location of the planned printing office in Moscow was a lucky one: a Georgian settlement was situated nearby and the emergence of new fellow countrymen on the adjacent streets did not arouse any suspicions.
However, the covert operation was located in truly dangerous environment: amidst buildings directly associated with the imperial guard.
To better understand and see the district, please use our interactive map.
The original safe house is still standing in an old Moscow district. It was here, during the First Russian Revolution (1905-1907)*, that the illegal printing office operated, masked away from unwanted curious eyes in quite a sophisticated and cunning manner.
The underground printing office was arranged in the basement of the fruit wholesale shop, opened specially as a “cover-up.” Among undergrounders this object’s codename was the “Caucasian shop”.
Yet the main danger lay in the surroundings of the house.
Open the map to learn more!
The shop was situated on Lesnaya Street in Moscow, on the ground floor of a typical commercial apartment building. Its owner, Kuzma Kolupaev, a Cartwright, probably knew about the underground activity, but was afraid to report it: he would have inevitably ended up as a co-conspirator along with the tenants.
The First Russian Revolution (1905-1907)
The covert enterprise was established during the course of the First Russian Revolution of 1905-1907. It was triggered by the so-called Bloody Sunday of January 22, 1905, when unarmed demonstrators willing to present a petition to Tsar Nicholas II were fired upon by soldiers of the Imperial Guard in St. Petersburg. More than two years of mass political and social unrest resulted in establishment of limited constitutional monarchy, the parliament (the State Duma), the multi-party system, and the Russian Constitution of 1906.
Vladimir Makovsky «9th of January 1905, Vasilievsky Island»
The cover-up story made to avoid attention was utterly simple and convincing.
The wholesale shop was registered in the name of Marian Kalandadze, who was not directly involved in the printing office activities and was actually nothing more than a frontman. Thanks to his impeccable reputation, he had the right to trade, including doing business in Moscow. However, according to the conspiracy plan he was not supposed to be seen in either in his “own” store or anywhere else in the city.
In the owner’s absence, the “manager,” who also controlled the covert operations, ran the store.
The hardworking Georgian family man could not be knit into any revolutionary activities for the authorities. The manager’s family, consisting of his wife, a young daughter and the domestic help, completed the decent image.
The shop’s owner, Marian Kalandadze, was in fact a revolutionary and a port loader in Batumi.
Please, use the interactive model of the museum to go inside!
Meanwhile, a completely illegal activity took place in the basement of the shop.
For a whole year, the best members of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party printed revolutionary leaflets and the “Rabochiy” (“Labourer”) newspaper here.